From Faith To Healing: Matavan, The Guardian Spirit Of The Forest Of Jhabua!

By Outlook Traveller

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From faith to healing, Matavan is a matter of belief for forest communities

As a little girl, Puniyabhai Bhuria's daughter was once very sick. He believes that she recovered from the illness due to the blessings of 'Matavan' or the forest deity. Puniyabhai hails from the Bhil tribe in Jhabua district's Rakhadia village and like most people here, he reveres the forest. It is what has sustained his family for aeons and will continue to do so for a long time to come, he tells us. The reverence in his voice is telling of just how much the community looks up to these sacred groves. No ritual is complete without paying respects to the jungle. 

Although the curing of illnesses by the blessings of Matavan may be a matter of belief, most communities in Jhabua and Alirajpur districts look up to the forest as the primary source of remedy for minor health concerns. After sipping a cup of tea under a tree in Puniyabhai's yard, we follow him into the forest, which is a short walk away. All along, he points out to us the many medicinal qualities of the forest that make it sacred for the Bhil community. The Mahua leaves, for instance, help with cramps. Twigs of the 'Ratandodiya' help with dental care, the henna plant helps in healing cracked feet, bark of the 'Ladhodi' tree is used to heal burns, the 'Baramaasi' helps with swelling, the 'Garmala' heals body pain, and so on. From treating cuts and bruises to aiding fertility, there is a remedy at hand for most ailments in the forest, Puniyabhai tells us.

Power to heal

Along the walk, we notice that some trees have under them a little canopy made with branches and sticks. Kept below are clay urns and clay dolls in the shape of horses. Easily camouflaged by auburn leaves all around, they look like they're guarding a shrine. Puniyabhai starts clearing the dried leaves and putting aside the twigs as though tidying up a space in his home. "These are offerings made to the forest. We don't pluck the leaves or chop the branches of these trees for any domestic purpose," he tells us. The clay horses are symbolic of Lord Shiva, he informs. A revered deity in the state, you will find little Shiva temples, the 'trishul' or 'Shivlings' every few minutes.

Shivganga, an NGO operating in Jhabua, has been instrumental in reviving parts of the forest lost to 'development work' by planting close to 43,000 trees in the district. Together with the local communities, they not only plant these trees, but also pledge to protect them until the trees mature. Rajendra Dindod, a volunteer with Shivganga, tells us that the philosophy is an extension of their way of life and that certain plants and trees are akin to family. "I am from the Dindod community, so the 'Hetri' tree is particularly sacred to us. If I see someone harming it or chopping it, it is my moral obligation to intervene and request him or her to not do so. Similarly, someone from the Bilwal community would extend that protection to the 'Bil Patra' or a person from the Singad community would do so for the 'Kekdia' plant. We consider these plants and trees as an extension of our families and it is our duty to protect them."

The Information

How to get there: The nearest airports from Jhabua are Indore, at a distance of 150 km, and Vadodara, at a distance of 188 km. The nearest railway station is at Nahargarh, 19 km away.

Best time to visit: Anytime of the year is fine, but 

October onwards, after the rains have just washed over, 

is particularly good.

Website: You can get additional information about Matavan and Shivganga's efforts at https://shivgangajhabua.org

Suggested accommodation: The MPT Tourist Motel, NH-59, Deojharipanda, Madhya Pradesh 

Contact: 07392-244668

Website: https://mpstdc.com

Madhya Pradesh is a treasure trove of rural experiences that soothe frayed city nerves. Here are a few other options for you:

Walk with the Pardhis

Get a glimpse of the life of the Pardhis, MP's traditional hunters. Evolving with the times, the Pardhis now use their traditional knowledge of the wild to acquaint tourists with their home, Panna. 

How to get there: The closest airport and railway station to Panna is Khajuraho. The closest railway junction is Satna. 

Address: Jungle Camp Madla, Panna, Madhya Pradesh 

Accommodation: MPT Jungle Camp 

Cost: `2,500 onwards (for accommodation) 

Contact:  +91 7880108592

Website: To book a walk with the Pardhis, visit https://thelastwilderness.org

Daytrip to Khamba village

Khamba, near Pench National Park, is a Gond village where you can spend a day amidst birdsong, watch children at play, and see the sun go down.  

How to get there: Nagpur is the nearest airport and railway station to Pench. Khamba village shares a boundary with the national park.

Accommodation: There are many options in Pench, across 

price brackets.

Source URL: https://www.outlookindia.com/traveller/mp/wellness/read/sacred-jungles-of-jhabua/