Savour the Flavours of Gond Thali at Kanha Earth Lodge!

By Outlook Traveller

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Made from freshly-foraged ingredients, the Gond thali at Kanha Earth Lodge is food for the soul

It is early evening, and one can see smoke rising from a little mound of charcoal in the courtyard. Of course, it's too early for the 'angaar', even on a really cold day, so we take a closer look to find out that the mound is in fact dung cake charcoal. It is being prepared to roast kicad roti, a star component of the Gond thali to be served later that night.

If you're an amateur chef or even a seasoned one who has always wanted a peek into the workings of a professional kitchen, then the Gond thali experience at Kanha Earth Lodge is doubly exciting. Because this is an open kitchen and a curious onlooker is more than welcome. The Gond chef, Rohit Shendram, is happy to indulge any questions and unlike some chefs who fiercely guard their recipes, patiently takes you through the process of preparing each dish.

The first thing, however, that draws your attention during the experience is the exquisite earthen counter - with clay pots and traditional pans. It bears decorative etchings and one can see the firewood burning through its front facade. It's only 4 p.m., but preparations are well underway.

Rolled and steamed

In a world drifting towards the convenience of two-minute noodles and one-pot recipes, the joy of devouring a slow-cooked meal, prepared in traditional pots with freshly-foraged ingredients, defines a fine-dine experience.  And it's not just a culinary delight. It offers a window into the lives of its people. As author Deborah Cater puts it, "You have to taste a culture to understand it". If the Gond thali is anything to go by, its simple yet robust flavours speak for the earthy and ingenious people of the Gond community. 

Given its special place in the Gond thali, the kicad roti is what we're looking forward to sampling. A unique Indian bread, kicad is a ball of wheat dough with salt and ghee/butter pressed in between Camel Foot leaves and left to slow cook in the charcoal. Once done, the texture resembles that of a cookie that you can crack with your fingers. Served hot with a side of jaggery, you can also dip it in the curries on the plate. It makes for a very interesting texture and spin on the more popular form of roti.

Eco-conscious thali

The rest of the fare is served on a copper plate, lined with a traditional 'thali' stitched with palash leaves. The original Indian disposable plate. Of course it is the only 'disposable' in the property, because Kanha Earth Lodge is an eco-conscious venture that composts all of its wet waste. The compost goes directly to their organic garden. 

But back to the food. Next up, we bite into the Bhramakass ki badi or chakri. Spiced chickpea flour is spread out on Colocasia leaves, rolled and steamed. It is a variation of the Maharashtrian 

Aluwadi, Gujrati Patra or Kannadiga Patrode among others. But what sets this apart is that it is deep fried until it gets crunchy like a fritter! 

Another popular Gond dish on the menu is the Paan Bada - a preparation of urad dal balls fried and let into a spiced gravy. Hot and comforting, it can be had with rice or as a dip with the kicad roti. On the side, is the fiery Bhedra Chutney made of roasted tomatoes mixed with freshly ground spices and crushed on a traditional sil batta (grinding stone). What a sil batta does to squeeze out the juices of ingredients, a mixer can never do. And therefore, although a charmingly simple recipe, the Bhedra Chutney packs a punch.  

The thali also had a local spin on the baigan ka bharta, a paneer dish and a chicken gravy. All of this, served by a very hospitable staff that urges you to take extra helpings of everything.

Flavorsome and fresh, each dish on the thali - especially on the cold winter night - was like a warm hug on a plate. That it is served in the beautiful outdoors under a tree at Kanha Earth Lodge, only adds to the charming and rustic Gond experience.

The Information

How to get there: Kanha is a four-hour drive from Jabalpur Airport or Jabalpur Railway Station. It is five hours away from Raipur Airport.

Best time of the year: The place hosts guests all year round, but October onwards is particularly ideal.

Address: Kanha Earth Lodge, Kanha Tiger Reserve, P.O. Sarekha, Narna, Madhya Pradesh

Cost: Tariff for double occupancy starts at `16,000. If you're not staying at the lodge, you will need to make a prior dinner/lunch reservation for `3,500 per person.

Website: https://www.kanhaearthlodge.com

Madhya Pradesh's platter is a generous dose of organic foods sourced from the forest and farms. Enjoy more traditional fares in the following places:

MPT Kings Lodge, Bandhavgarh

The Baiga thali is truly reflective of its culture - rooted, warm and healing. Enjoy an authentic Baiga Thali at Kings Lodge.

How to get there: Umariaa is the closest railway station. Jabalpur is the closest airport to Kings Lodge.

Address: Kings Lodge, Rancha village, Umaria, Madhya Pradesh

Cost: `16,000 onwards

Contact: +91-11-4013 6332;
Website: https://www.kingslodge.in/

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